When I first heard about a whites-only town still existing in democratic South Africa, I was stunned. The place is called Orania — and it’s real. No black residents. No black workers. A self-proclaimed Afrikaner-only community that prints its own currency, runs its own government, and builds its own future — separate from the rest of the country.
I knew I had to see it for myself.
So I made the six-hour journey from Johannesburg to Orania in the Northern Cape. This wasn’t a typical travel experience. It was an investigation into a cultural paradox, a relic of apartheid wrapped in modern self-sufficiency. What I found was complicated, uncomfortable, and deeply revealing.
What Is Orania?
Orania was founded in 1991 by Carel Boshoff, the son-in-law of Hendrik Verwoerd, the architect of apartheid. His vision? To create a “cultural homeland” for white Afrikaners, preserving their language, religion, and values.
Today, the town has about 3,000 residents — all white, all Afrikaans-speaking, and all bound by a shared belief: South Africa no longer represents them.
You can’t live in Orania unless:
- You are a white Afrikaner
- You speak Afrikaans
- You align with their Christian and cultural values
- And you have no criminal record
Yes, in 2025.
Arriving in Orania
The first thing I noticed was the silence. It’s clean, quiet, and eerily organized. The airstrip, the private security building, and the Monument Hill all seemed to exist outside of time.
When I arrived, I was welcomed warmly. But make no mistake, I was a visitor. A guest. I could stay, but I could never belong.
In fact, one resident told me plainly:
“If I have money, you’re saying I can’t buy a house here?”
“Yeah, because you are not Afrikaan.”
Separate Systems, Separate Beliefs
Orania runs almost entirely off-grid:
- Electricity? Generated through their solar power system.
- Security? Handled by their own trained force, no state police presence.
- Banking? They even print their own currency (the Ora) pegged to the South African rand.
They are building horizontally, not vertically, preferring walkable spaces, low-rise homes, and strong community ties. There’s no nightlife. No malls. Just co-ops, farms, homeschool groups, and an overwhelming sense of control.
And that control extends to who can live and work here.
Even labor, from construction to plumbing, is exclusively done by white Afrikaners. One resident explained:
“If we want to be a community of Afrikaners, then we must do the labor ourselves. We don’t want to exploit others.”
But I couldn’t help but ask:
“What if the best plumber for the job is a black South African?”
“Then we’d train one of ours to learn the skill and bring it back.”
Is Orania Legal?
Shockingly, yes.
Under Section 31 and 235 of South Africa’s Constitution, cultural communities have the right to self-determination, as long as they do not infringe on the rights of others. Orania exists within this legal grey space, a private town built on privately purchased land, enforcing residency restrictions under the guise of “cultural preservation.”
Still, many South Africans see it for what it looks like: segregation rebranded.
The Tension of Living Apart
One of the most haunting moments of my trip came at Monument Hill. Here, statues of historic Afrikaner leaders overlook the town, including Verwoerd himself.
“This is the small giant,” a resident told me, referring to a symbol of Orania.
“He’s rolling up his sleeves because he’s ready to work.”
But what happens when your symbol of pride is someone else’s symbol of pain?
I asked if honoring Verwoerd didn’t contradict their claims of being post-apartheid.
The answer: “History is grey. Not black and white.”
Safety or Separation?
Many residents pointed to Orania’s near-zero crime rate as proof that their system works. They believe South Africa’s crime, corruption, and energy problems have failed them, and their only option was to build their own world.
“I’ve got a wife and three children here,” one father told me.
“We homeschool. We walk at night. We don’t worry.”
But is safety worth this level of exclusion? Can self-determination ever be just when it excludes others based on race?
So, Should You Visit Orania?
As a traveler and storyteller, I say yes — but go with open eyes.
You won’t find restaurants or nightlife here. You won’t be welcomed as a neighbor. But you’ll learn. You’ll question. And you’ll leave with a deeper understanding of the complex racial and cultural tensions still alive in post-apartheid South Africa.
What to know before visiting:
- Orania is not a tourist attraction. It’s a living, functioning community.
- Accommodation is limited. I stayed in a simple 2-bedroom setup for about 1,590 Rands (≈ $90).
- You will be watched. Not in a hostile way, but in a “you don’t belong here” way.
- Come with respect. And come with questions.
Final Thoughts
Orania is not just a town; it’s a statement. Whether that statement is courageous, dangerous, or delusional depends on who you ask.
I walked in with curiosity. I left with discomfort. But also clarity. South Africa’s journey toward unity is far from over, and Orania is a mirror reflecting that unfinished struggle.
So the real question isn’t “What is Orania doing?” It’s what is South Africa doing to heal, reconcile, and move forward together? You can watch my full experience here.
Until the next journey,
— Steven Ndukwu